Find more information and guides on the toaster device page.
Running the toaster without toast, the wires on some sections glow red hot and some of the other wires don’t.
The glowing wire is called nichrome wire (for nickel-chromium), if part of the array does not heat there’s a break in the wire somewhere.
Possible causes of breakage:
there was a weak spot or nick in the wire when the wire was manufactured,
there was a weak spot or nick made in the wire when the toaster was manufactured (we’ve seen the break at or near a bend in the wire or a rivet point)
someone physically broke the wire by sticking something (like a fork) into the toaster.
To Fix: You have to disassemble the toaster sufficiently to locate the break and then get good access to it. If you’re lucky and there’s enough extra wire, you might simply be able to twist the two broken ends together enough to re-establish contact (you can then at least confirm that’s the problem.)
Otherwise, you need a high-temperature crimp and a crimping tool to to crimp the two ends together. Here are two examples of crimps: High-Temperature Crimp-on Butt Splice, Noninsulated, 22-18 Awg, 900 Degree F Temperature Rating, Packs of 100 and High-Temperature Crimp-on Butt Splice, Noninsulated, 16-14 Awg, 900 Degree F Temperature Rating, Packs of 100
Note: The nichrome wire is wrapped around sheets of a brittle ceramic/mica-like material. Depending on where the break is you might find it necessary (or at least tempting) to cut this material. Be very careful, sawing might be better than cutting as it tends to flake.
When you push down the toasting lever, it pops right back up again, or you have to push it down multiple times, or hold it down for a little while before it will stay down.
Make sure that the toaster is plugged into a working outlet.
The toaster’s browning dial might be on too low of a setting to activate the heating coil. Try dialing it up, and pushing the lever down again.
Constant use can lead to crumbs clogging the path of the lever. Try opening up the bottom panel, by pulling on the metal tab to release the plate (and crumbs!) over a trash can. Also try flipping the toaster upside down and, very gently, shaking the crumbs out.
To Test: Wiggle the plug wire near the plug to see if that makes a noticeable difference. If you can make any lights or display on the toaster flicker by wiggling the wire that’s a clear sign there’s an intermittent problem in the wire. Use a spare plug wire in lieu of the original one and see if that resolves the issue.
To Fix: Replace the entire plug wire or just the plug.
Background: we’ve seen this a couple of times: people yank the plug wire out of the wall socket by yanking on the cord, causing the stranded wires in the cord to break over time. It usually gets weak right near the base of the molded plug. If the toaster has lights or an LED display they may still light up and make the toaster look like it’s getting electricity: it’s just not getting enough electricity to run the toaster.
Check the plug wire first before going to the effort of opening the toaster to clean the contacts. While this is a less common failure mode it’s easier to check and will save you a lot of troubleshooting time.
There’s an electrical contact near the toasting lever that is now carbonized due to too much electrical arcing and it’s not letting any (or enough) electricity flow through. The contacts will look black or dulled on the inside.
To Fix: Clean off the carbon from the contacts and the toaster will work again. We use an emery board and push it back and forth between the contacts until they’re clean again and can conduct electricity.
Additional Information: The arcing is due to slightly misaligned contacts that made it through poor quality control. The toaster works initially but over time electrical sparking between the contacts due to the misalignment creates carbon build up: that build-up is electrically insulating.
There’s a lot of current going through that contact because of the way a pop-up toaster works. When you push the toasting lever down it also makes contact with a solenoid (an electromagnet) that holds the lever down. The current for that electromagnet flows through the carbonized contact along with all the electricity to run the nichrome wire heating elements: not enough current and the electromagnet doesn’t energize and the lever doesn’t stay down.
This problem is also common with electric hot water kettles where the button or lever or switch won’t stay down.
Maintaining the spring attached to the lever will remove debris that is potentially blocking the lever from connecting to the magnet
Its plugged in, I’m not that technically inept.
First make sure that the outlet works by plugging other devices into that same outlet.
Visually check the wire for any punctures or abrasions. If you find damage on your power cord you should replace it. Follow this power cord replacement guide, or one more specific to your device.
Bread grabbers will not keep the bread vertical or return it properly. Metal forks and electric heating coils don’t mix, so don’t try.
If the bread won’t come back up, try using a different bread that is maybe thicker or less pliable.
If the bread is folding within the grabbers, the springs pushing the grabbers together could possibly be malfunctioning. This will require opening the toaster, you can follow this Bread grabber spring guide, or one more specific to your device.
Avoid that “is something burning??” question every time you put a piece of bread in the toaster.
Most toasters will come with a crumb tray to allow the removal of some of the crumbs that may be causing the burning smell. Check on the bottom of the toaster for a metal tab to release the crumb tray plate (and crumbs!) over a trash can. Also try flipping the toaster upside down and, very gently, shaking the crumbs out. If your toaster needs a more in depth cleaning, try this bread tray maintenance guide or one more suited to your specific device.
If there are bread crumbs on the coils themselves, ensure that the toaster is off and not connected to any power, then gently pry the crumbs out of the heating element.
Only a true toaster connoisseur can find that golden spot to make that golden toast, but your toast isn’t turning out even close to what you wanted.
If the browning dial will not move at all, crumbs may be stuck in the socket. Unplug the toaster and try to dislodge the debris by shaking the unit.
The dial may no longer be in communication with the device itself. This will require the opening of the toaster to see if there is something (i.e. a crumb) interfering with the browning dials inner workings or if you have a more serious problem on your hands.
You may have to disassemble the toaster, you can follow a generic toaster disassembly guide or one more specific to your device.
