Difficulty

Difficult

Steps

12

Time Required

                          1 hour

Sections

1

  • Power Connector
  • 12 steps

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  • BackTexas Instruments TI-Nspire CX

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Introduction

Warning: The disassembly steps are different for the Nspire CX II (CAS)!

What you need

Step 1

              Remove top feet
  • Take top feet off.

Take top feet off.

1024

Step 2

  • Unscrew top “clutch” shaped screws using 1mm jewelers screwdriver.

Unscrew top “clutch” shaped screws using 1mm jewelers screwdriver.

Step 3

  • Remove battery cover

Remove battery cover

Step 4

  • Remove battery connector by grabbing lead and pulling out with fingers.
  • An alternative is to use pliers to pull the tab out, or a screwdriver to wedge the side tabs off, but the plastic is delicate.

Remove battery connector by grabbing lead and pulling out with fingers.

An alternative is to use pliers to pull the tab out, or a screwdriver to wedge the side tabs off, but the plastic is delicate.

Step 5

  • Remove center cover “clutch” screws with 1mm screwdriver.

Remove center cover “clutch” screws with 1mm screwdriver.

Step 6

  • Remove the two T6 screws here. Don’t worry about the connector cover, it won’t come loose.

Remove the two T6 screws here. Don’t worry about the connector cover, it won’t come loose.

Step 7

  • Pry off front face with fingers and nails, otherwise spudger. Removal does not take too much force. work around one edge to the top.
  • The reset button and rubber dome might come loose, make sure you don’t lose it.

Pry off front face with fingers and nails, otherwise spudger. Removal does not take too much force. work around one edge to the top.

The reset button and rubber dome might come loose, make sure you don’t lose it.

Step 8

  • Inspect power connector damage. This calculator has all of the power contacts torn off.
  • Follow the traces to see where to solder on replacement leads.
  • I guessed the locations of where new leads were needed and got lucky.

Inspect power connector damage. This calculator has all of the power contacts torn off.

Follow the traces to see where to solder on replacement leads.

I guessed the locations of where new leads were needed and got lucky.

Step 9

  • Use enameled wire or other types of coated wire.
  • Do NOT use bare copper wire. Although it is used in this tutorial, bare wire can short and permanently brick the calculator.
  • Pre-tin the leads so solder sticks more easily onto the copper. Do this by adding solder to tip of soldering iron, then rubbing across one of the ends of the replacement wire.
  • Do this to both sides of all the wires, tin both the front and back each single end. The tin does not automatically flow to both sides, therefore tediously tin the front, then back of one side of wire.
  • A steady hand helps with soldering to the PCB.

Use enameled wire or other types of coated wire.

Do NOT use bare copper wire. Although it is used in this tutorial, bare wire can short and permanently brick the calculator.

Pre-tin the leads so solder sticks more easily onto the copper. Do this by adding solder to tip of soldering iron, then rubbing across one of the ends of the replacement wire.

Do this to both sides of all the wires, tin both the front and back each single end. The tin does not automatically flow to both sides, therefore tediously tin the front, then back of one side of wire.

A steady hand helps with soldering to the PCB.

Step 10

  • Tape off the board with electrical tape or Kapton tape to prevent shorting.
  • Soldering the replacement leads in the wrong locations could cause unintended behavior, or a permanently bricked calculator.
  • This solder layout lead to failure of data transfer operation. Charging was ok.

Tape off the board with electrical tape or Kapton tape to prevent shorting.

Soldering the replacement leads in the wrong locations could cause unintended behavior, or a permanently bricked calculator.

This solder layout lead to failure of data transfer operation. Charging was ok.

Step 11

  • Test before sealing the leads with superglue or tape.
  • Be sure not to touch any leads together.
  • The new solder joints can break easily. Take care not to excessively or repeatedly bend leads.
  • Superglue the support contacts back to the board, excessive pressure when charging may break the power plug off a second time.
  • Avoid using superglue that flows easily. This could clog up the new port or create a mess as shown in the photos.

Test before sealing the leads with superglue or tape.

Be sure not to touch any leads together.

The new solder joints can break easily. Take care not to excessively or repeatedly bend leads.

Superglue the support contacts back to the board, excessive pressure when charging may break the power plug off a second time.

Avoid using superglue that flows easily. This could clog up the new port or create a mess as shown in the photos.

Step 12

  • Celebrate!

Celebrate!

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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                                                                                      2 other people completed this guide.

Author

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                    trogfield

Member since: 11/01/2014

380 Reputation

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Charlie Clemett - Sep 4, 2016

Reply

Hi, nice layout and very clear thank you. Do you know where one can buy this usb charge port please??

TheLastMillennial - Feb 6, 2019

Reply

That moment your recognize your colleague’s dog in the last photo.

Mark Gyomory - Sep 23, 2019

Reply

Hello, I was going to follow this guide, but I cannot find a 1mm clutch bit can you send me a link or tell me where to go to find one. Thank you.

David Sattgast - Sep 23, 2019

Reply

I used an appropriately sized flathead from a electronics repair kit I owned. I also was not able to locate a suitable bit. I thought a tiny spanner ( 2 prongs) bit would do, but alas…

My most recent set had the flathead in (was also doing an imac repair and needed a larger variety of pentalobes):

https://www.amazon.com/Vastar-Magnetic-P…

It’s every bit as cheap as it looks, but since those blasted pentalobes die with each attempt on a repair pretty much, I am not looking for fancy. Stupid Apple.

Jacob - Dec 2, 2019

Reply

Hello all. I was able to complete this guide successfully however please do not solder like the Author did. I was able to get data working as well. The steps to getting the calculator open were awesome but after that please do not follow. I also found a small flathead will work for taking off the “clutch” screws. I was able to get a USB-C connector working with data transfer. I used insulated cables not thin strands of copper which have a high likely hood of shorting and no need to tape over anything. Also for those solders going to the bridge connectors, you can actually remove those bridge resistors as they are 0 ohms. Effectively doing nothing but acting as a bridge between pads. Texas Instruments must use this same PCB design for multiple things.