Difficulty

Difficult

Steps

4

Time Required

                          2 - 3 hours            

Sections

1

  • Capacitors, Schottky diode, MOSFET, shunt
  • 4 steps

Flags

2

In Progress

This guide is a work in progress. Reload periodically to see the latest changes!

Member-Contributed Guide

An awesome member of our community made this guide. It is not managed by iFixit staff.

  • BackTeufel Rockster

  • Full Screen

  • Options

  • History

  • Save to Favorites

  • Download PDF

  • Translate

  • Get Shareable Link

  • Embed This Guide

  • Notify Me of Changes

  • Stop Notifications

Introduction

By the way, the loosened tweeter only needs to be glued to the horn with hot glue. To do this, the speaker grille and horn are removed from the front. (see youtube)

This post, however, is about repairing the electronics.

When I initially went to test listen to the speaker because of the tweeter problem, when I turned on the Rockster we were greeted with a hissing noise and some white smoke coming from the rear connectors. I immediately turned off the power strip. To avoid doing more damage, I didn’t try turning the speaker on again. Having already repaired another Rockster in 2019 (#RockRep2019), I had a premonition of what to expect. I described the 2019 repair starting with step 3 / option 2.

Note: No repairs to the 230V power supply are necessary!

Step 1

              Remove the electronics module               
  • Disconnect the power plug and wait 30 minutes until the capacitors of the power supply unit are discharged.
  • Remove the battery.
  • Place the loudspeaker with the front on the floor.
  • Remove the 12 screws on the rear electronic module
  • Lift the electronic module, disconnect the connectors and remove the cable ties of the Bluetooth antennas.

Disconnect the power plug and wait 30 minutes until the capacitors of the power supply unit are discharged.

Remove the battery.

Place the loudspeaker with the front on the floor.

Remove the 12 screws on the rear electronic module

Lift the electronic module, disconnect the connectors and remove the cable ties of the Bluetooth antennas.

1024

Step 2

              Option 1: Completely repair the battery/boost converter board #RockRep2022               
  • Remove the Battery/Boost-Converter board visible in the photo.
  • Replace both marked capacitors (25V; 1000µF; 10mm diameter; 22mm height). These blew due to overvoltage (45V on 12V rail) and were responsible for the white smoke.
  • The following items describe the repair of the 4-phase boost converter. This generates 25V or 45V from 12V in battery mode, depending on the volume. Each of the four phases consists of MOSFET, diode, two current sense resistors and coil.
  • Replace MOSFET CSD19532Q5B (100V; 4mOhm). Here the MOSFET3 marked in the picture was defective (short circuit from drain to source). But it is also possible that another one of the four MOSFETs arranged below each other is defective, e.g. MOSFET 4 in step 3 / option 2.
  • Replace both current sense resistors (1206 10mOhm; e.g. TLRP2B10DR010FTD) under the defective MOSFET. If they still have continuity, they are probably still intact.
  • On the backside of the board replace the corresponding double Schottky diode 43ctq100s (100V; 2x20A). There are four diodes (two per D2PAK package) for the four mosfets. The defective diode can be checked by lifting the legs and multimeter in the diode test. An intact Schottky diode shows 0.15V to 0.3V in the diode test. A defective one shows 0V.

Remove the Battery/Boost-Converter board visible in the photo.

Replace both marked capacitors (25V; 1000µF; 10mm diameter; 22mm height). These blew due to overvoltage (45V on 12V rail) and were responsible for the white smoke.

The following items describe the repair of the 4-phase boost converter. This generates 25V or 45V from 12V in battery mode, depending on the volume. Each of the four phases consists of MOSFET, diode, two current sense resistors and coil.

Replace MOSFET CSD19532Q5B (100V; 4mOhm). Here the MOSFET3 marked in the picture was defective (short circuit from drain to source). But it is also possible that another one of the four MOSFETs arranged below each other is defective, e.g. MOSFET 4 in step 3 / option 2.

Replace both current sense resistors (1206 10mOhm; e.g. TLRP2B10DR010FTD) under the defective MOSFET. If they still have continuity, they are probably still intact.

On the backside of the board replace the corresponding double Schottky diode 43ctq100s (100V; 2x20A). There are four diodes (two per D2PAK package) for the four mosfets. The defective diode can be checked by lifting the legs and multimeter in the diode test. An intact Schottky diode shows 0.15V to 0.3V in the diode test. A defective one shows 0V.

Step 3

              Option 2: Repair battery/boost converter board temporarily #RockRep2019               
  • On another Rockster (#RockRep2019) the MOSFET and diode of the fourth phase were defective. In that case, there is an option to convert the 4-phase boost converter to a 3-phase boost converter. (This could cause problems at very high music power in battery mode, because the other phases carry more power and become warmer).
  • According to the data sheet of the TPS40090 controller, the PWM output of phase4 must be connected to the internal LDO for this purpose. The necessary connection is drawn in red in the photo. (The orange piece of cable unfortunately leads to pin “Vin” instead of “BP5”, but it still worked).
  • Unsolder the defective MOSFET of phase 4.
  • The double Schottky diode on the backside can be used for phase 3. Just cut the leg for phase 4.

On another Rockster (#RockRep2019) the MOSFET and diode of the fourth phase were defective. In that case, there is an option to convert the 4-phase boost converter to a 3-phase boost converter. (This could cause problems at very high music power in battery mode, because the other phases carry more power and become warmer).

According to the data sheet of the TPS40090 controller, the PWM output of phase4 must be connected to the internal LDO for this purpose. The necessary connection is drawn in red in the photo. (The orange piece of cable unfortunately leads to pin “Vin” instead of “BP5”, but it still worked).

Unsolder the defective MOSFET of phase 4.

The double Schottky diode on the backside can be used for phase 3. Just cut the leg for phase 4.

Step 4

              Further defective components at #RockRep2019               
  • At the Rockster (#RockRep2019) further components were defective. These are drawn in the schematic.
  • Transistor PMOS 4P03L04 (-30V; 4,1mOhm; -80A) to the external battery input had a short circuit and therefore the overvoltage was passed to the following components
  • Another electrolytic capacitor (same type as step 1) on the battery/boost converter board
  • Fuse T800mA (e.g. ESKA 883.116) at the input of the mainboard PCB. In the photo you can see a round fuse with the same electrical values instead of the original rectangular fuse.
  • TVS diode (labeling: 6BG; 14.4V-15.9V; e.g. SMA6F13A) at the input of the mainboard board. This diode protected the mainboard from the overvoltage and triggered the fuse.

At the Rockster (#RockRep2019) further components were defective. These are drawn in the schematic.

Transistor PMOS 4P03L04 (-30V; 4,1mOhm; -80A) to the external battery input had a short circuit and therefore the overvoltage was passed to the following components

Another electrolytic capacitor (same type as step 1) on the battery/boost converter board

Fuse T800mA (e.g. ESKA 883.116) at the input of the mainboard PCB. In the photo you can see a round fuse with the same electrical values instead of the original rectangular fuse.

TVS diode (labeling: 6BG; 14.4V-15.9V; e.g. SMA6F13A) at the input of the mainboard board. This diode protected the mainboard from the overvoltage and triggered the fuse.

Work through the steps in reverse order to reassemble your device.

Please do not forget to reattach the Bluetooth antennas.

If the Rockster does not work on battery power, it may help to unplug the power cord once during mains operation. Then it will continue to run and start without mains power.

Have fun!

Cancel: I did not complete this guide.

        oldturkey03 is helping us fix the world!      Want to contribute?      Start translating › 

Special thanks to these translators:

100%

oldturkey03

Author

                                      with 1 other contributor 

                    Philip                     

Member since: 10/29/2022

109 Reputation

                                      1 Guide authored                  



                       Badges:
                       2

Florian Schedl - Jan 10, 2023

Reply

Wo sitzt der Transistor „PMOS 4P03L04“ der in Schritt 4 genannt wird?

oldturkey03 - Jan 10, 2023

Looks like image #2, Step 4, Right arrow is pointing to that location

Philip - Jan 13, 2023

Der PMOS sitzt auf der Battery/Boost-Converter Platine und hat ein beschriftetes D2PAK/TO263 Gehäuse. Insgesamt sind dort vier Stück, von denen einer defekt war.

Michael Geise - Jan 14, 2023

Reply

Moin Philipp, bei meinem rockster ist das so,der läuft nur über Netzkabel. Neue interne Batterie und neue externe Batterie das gleiche Problem. Fährt hoch alle LEDs leuchten,bis Bluetooth paring,10 sek,dann blinkt die on LED rot und er geht aus.

Kannst du mir das reparieren. Wollen die Box nämlich am 12.13.02.2023 an karneval mit externen Akku betreiben. Habe leider kein profi equipment um sie zu reparieren.

Von wo kommst du.ich aus 49451 Holdorf

Mfg Michael Geise

Philip - Jan 14, 2023

Hi Michael,

leider fehlt mir dafür aktuell die Zeit. Vlt kann jemand anders oder der Teufel Service helfen.

Wenn der Lautsprecher im Netzbetrieb normal läuft, sollte es theoretisch ausreichen, nur die Battery-Booster-Platine zu versenden und zu reparieren.

Ich hoffe ihr habt bis Karneval was Brauchbares am Start ;)

Grüße aus Karlsruhe