Steelseries Rival 700 Gaming Mouse Disassembly Repair Guide

Difficulty

Easy

Steps

10

Time Required

                          5 minutes            

Sections

4

• Nameplate
• 4 steps
• Top cover
• 2 steps
• Sensor Assemby
• 2 steps
• Steelseries Rival 700 Gaming Mouse Disassembly
• 2 steps

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What you need

Step 1

              Disconnect the mouse from your computer               

• To avoid electronically damaging either your computer or your mouse, unplug the usb cable from its socket.

To avoid electronically damaging either your computer or your mouse, unplug the usb cable from its socket.

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Step 2

              Disconnect the cable from the mouse               

• The Rival 700 mouse is a non wireless mouse. The micro-USB cable end is an elbow socket, secured by a plastic clip.
• To disconnect the cable from the mouse, firmly press the plastic clip using your thumb

The Rival 700 mouse is a non wireless mouse. The micro-USB cable end is an elbow socket, secured by a plastic clip.

To disconnect the cable from the mouse, firmly press the plastic clip using your thumb

Step 3

              Nameplate removal               

• The original nameplate is a soft rubber one that can be removed just by pulling it softly out of its socket.
• WARNING: When reassembling, if you’re using a custom nameplate that may not be as stretchable as the original one, insert it softly, and use a lime tool on the new part to avoid damaging the mouse socket.

The original nameplate is a soft rubber one that can be removed just by pulling it softly out of its socket.

WARNING: When reassembling, if you’re using a custom nameplate that may not be as stretchable as the original one, insert it softly, and use a lime tool on the new part to avoid damaging the mouse socket.

Step 4

              Nameplate printing               

• You will be able to download the 3D files to design a custom nameplate on the Steelseries website. The link is also provided in the part description.
• On this picture, the original “RIVAL” nameplate will be replaced with a new one on which i just had my Twitch ID printed.
• Be creative, use colored plastic, put logos and drawings on your mouse.

You will be able to download the 3D files to design a custom nameplate on the Steelseries website. The link is also provided in the part description.

On this picture, the original “RIVAL” nameplate will be replaced with a new one on which i just had my Twitch ID printed.

Be creative, use colored plastic, put logos and drawings on your mouse.

Step 5

              Top cover removal               

• Use both your index and thumb to gently pry the top cover out from the mouse.
• This part is a thin plastic one which needs a certain amount of strength to be removed. Be careful not to break it.

Use both your index and thumb to gently pry the top cover out from the mouse.

This part is a thin plastic one which needs a certain amount of strength to be removed. Be careful not to break it.

Step 6

              Top cover replacement               

• Steelseries sells a set of two different covers to replace the original one, with a sweat-resistant one f.e.
• Check the parts section for the purchase link.
• On the left, you can see on the wide led slot that is used to color the Steelseries logo on your mouse.

Steelseries sells a set of two different covers to replace the original one, with a sweat-resistant one f.e.

Check the parts section for the purchase link.

On the left, you can see on the wide led slot that is used to color the Steelseries logo on your mouse.

Step 7

              Sensor screws               

• Use a Philips #0 screwdriver to remove the four screws that are keeping the mouse sensor assembly sealed.

Use a Philips #0 screwdriver to remove the four screws that are keeping the mouse sensor assembly sealed.

Step 8

              Sensor removal               

• Insert your thumb and index in the two mouse holes and gently pry the sensor assembly out from its socket.

Insert your thumb and index in the two mouse holes and gently pry the sensor assembly out from its socket.

Step 9

              Sensor socket               

• The sensor assembly is linked to the mouse body with a 10-pin Steelseries custom connector.

The sensor assembly is linked to the mouse body with a 10-pin Steelseries custom connector.

Step 10

• Only four screws have to be removed to entirely re-design this gaming mouse, which is not that expensive regarding the high performance, features, and customizability.

Only four screws have to be removed to entirely re-design this gaming mouse, which is not that expensive regarding the high performance, features, and customizability.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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                                                                                      6 other people completed this guide.                                             

Author

                                      with 1 other contributor 

                    Vincent Monteil                     

Member since: 07/06/2013

6,843 Reputation

                                      19 Guides authored                  



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andned - Nov 15, 2016

Reply

Is it possible to open it up so that you can see the mouse wheel? Mine needs some lubrication since it’s making a squeaking sound as soon as I use the mouse wheel. Level of annoyance is over 9000!

Vincent Monteil - May 6, 2017

Hi @andned,

Never gave it a try as long as mine doesn’t need it. It is a pretty expensive mouse so I wouldn’t like to damage it.

The purpose of this guide was to demonstrate how easy customizing the mouse is easy.

Give us your feedback if you managed to do it :)

Richard - Sep 15, 2017

Reply

I to have had squeeky mouse wheel sound with BOTH of my Steelseries 700 Rival. Its so annoying, otherwise a very solid mouse. Would love to find a way to open it more up without damaging it.

Albert Einstein - Oct 18, 2017

Reply

You didn’t disassemble anything.

Vincent Monteil - Jan 1, 2018

I actually did :) my purpose was to demonstrate how easy it was to customise the mouse.

I think that you meant “this isn’t deep repair”. Indeed, it isn’t :)