Steelseries Arctis 3 5 Chatmix Dial Knob Cord Fix Repair Guide

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Steelseries Arctis 3/5 Chatmix Dial Knob Cord fix
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Introduction

What you need

Step 1

              Opening the chatmix.

To begin, unplug anything chatmix is connected to - headset, and the PC. Flip the chatmix around to the back and remove the glued rubberized oval foot (Top right part on the image)
Once the oval foot is removed, You will find four small hex screws. Remove these with a screwdriver. Be careful as they are very easy to strip.

To begin, unplug anything chatmix is connected to - headset, and the PC. Flip the chatmix around to the back and remove the glued rubberized oval foot (Top right part on the image)

Once the oval foot is removed, You will find four small hex screws. Remove these with a screwdriver. Be careful as they are very easy to strip.

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Step 2

              Further disassembly.

To further disassemble the chatmix - remove the rubberized grooved cover of the knob. The easiest way is to stick something pointy - like a screwdriver, into the top part and pry the rubber part off the knob.
Once the rubber is removed, You will be left with the plastic part for the knob. You’ll find an opening with a black hex screw inside. - Unscrew it and then the pcb should come loose.

To further disassemble the chatmix - remove the rubberized grooved cover of the knob. The easiest way is to stick something pointy - like a screwdriver, into the top part and pry the rubber part off the knob.

Once the rubber is removed, You will be left with the plastic part for the knob. You’ll find an opening with a black hex screw inside. - Unscrew it and then the pcb should come loose.

Step 3

              Finding the solder joints.

Once you have finished taking it apart, you should have 4 base screws, 1 knob screw, top and bottom housing, knob and the rubber cover as well as the oval foot.
Take the PCB and flip it around, so the knob encoder is facing the other direction. The PCB wont sit flat. You may find a black cover over the solder joints near the base on the opposite end of the pcb from where the headphone connects into.
Manually remove the black sticky substance over the solder joints. I don’t know if heating helps, having gently scraping it off using a pocket knife and my fingers - but a screwdriver would do. Be careful while scraping it off, to not damage any other parts on the PCB.

Once you have finished taking it apart, you should have 4 base screws, 1 knob screw, top and bottom housing, knob and the rubber cover as well as the oval foot.

Take the PCB and flip it around, so the knob encoder is facing the other direction. The PCB wont sit flat. You may find a black cover over the solder joints near the base on the opposite end of the pcb from where the headphone connects into.

Manually remove the black sticky substance over the solder joints. I don’t know if heating helps, having gently scraping it off using a pocket knife and my fingers - but a screwdriver would do. Be careful while scraping it off, to not damage any other parts on the PCB.

Step 4

              Resoldering the cable.

Now that You have uncovered the solder joints on the back side, You are ready to begin the soldering process. Plug in Your solder iron and let it heat up.
To resolder the cable back into the chatmix I recommend using already existing solder joints.
Inside your USB cable that connects to the chatmix, You will have 5 internal cables. It consists of standard USB 4 pinout: - Green (D+), White (D-), Red (+5V), Black (Ground)and an additional thicker black cable that wraps around the other four.
Looking at the PCB Photos. On the photo of the left side You will find 3 solder joints. Starting from the left You will find: Shell - solder in the extra thick black cable, D- - for the thin white cable, D+ - for the thin green cable.
Now look at the right side of the PCB. You will find, going from the right, 2 solder joints: VBUS - for the Red (+5V) cable and V- (for Ground)
Begin soldering the cables to their designated joints. Try to keep the usb cable going outwards of the pcb to later be able to easily reassemble the chatmix.

Now that You have uncovered the solder joints on the back side, You are ready to begin the soldering process. Plug in Your solder iron and let it heat up.

To resolder the cable back into the chatmix I recommend using already existing solder joints.

Inside your USB cable that connects to the chatmix, You will have 5 internal cables. It consists of standard USB 4 pinout: - Green (D+), White (D-), Red (+5V), Black (Ground)and an additional thicker black cable that wraps around the other four.

Looking at the PCB Photos. On the photo of the left side You will find 3 solder joints. Starting from the left You will find: Shell - solder in the extra thick black cable, D- - for the thin white cable, D+ - for the thin green cable.

Now look at the right side of the PCB. You will find, going from the right, 2 solder joints: VBUS - for the Red (+5V) cable and V- (for Ground)

Begin soldering the cables to their designated joints. Try to keep the usb cable going outwards of the pcb to later be able to easily reassemble the chatmix.

Step 5

              Finishing up.

Once Youre finished soldering the cables back in, Plug in the chatmix into the computer and Your Arctis headset. Verify that audio aswell as the microphone works correctly.
Once You have verified that chatmix works as it should, reassemble the chatmix carefully in the reverse order to how you’ve taken it apart.
Remember to cover up the exposed wire in insulating tape or cable shrink wrap.
And Youre done!

Once Youre finished soldering the cables back in, Plug in the chatmix into the computer and Your Arctis headset. Verify that audio aswell as the microphone works correctly.

Once You have verified that chatmix works as it should, reassemble the chatmix carefully in the reverse order to how you’ve taken it apart.

Remember to cover up the exposed wire in insulating tape or cable shrink wrap.

And Youre done!

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