Steam Deck Speakers Replacement Repair Guide

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

                          2 - 3 hours

Sections

Back Cover
3 steps
Steam Deck Battery Disconnection
4 steps
Steam Deck SSD Removal
2 steps
Steam Deck Heatsink Sticker Removal
1 step
Heatsink
2 steps
Motherboard
11 steps
Speakers
16 steps

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Provided Hardware

A manufacturer provided iFixit with this device or component.

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Introduction

Before you begin, completely power down and unplug all cables from your Steam Deck. Remember to follow general electrostatic discharge (ESD) safety procedures while repairing the device.

What you need

Step 1

              Remove the back cover screws

To minimize risk of damage, turn on your Steam Deck and allow the battery to discharge below 25% before starting your repairs. A charged lithium-ion battery can be very dangerous if accidentally punctured.
Before starting this guide, power down your Steam Deck and unplug any cables.
As an extra precaution, Valve recommends putting your Steam Deck into battery storage mode within the BIOS before starting any internal repairs. Read how to do that here.
If you have a microSD card installed, make sure to remove it before opening the Steam Deck.
Use a Phillips driver to remove the eight screws securing the back cover:
Four 9.5 mm screws
Four 5.8 mm screws
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your Steam Deck.

To minimize risk of damage, turn on your Steam Deck and allow the battery to discharge below 25% before starting your repairs. A charged lithium-ion battery can be very dangerous if accidentally punctured.

Before starting this guide, power down your Steam Deck and unplug any cables.

As an extra precaution, Valve recommends putting your Steam Deck into battery storage mode within the BIOS before starting any internal repairs. Read how to do that here.

If you have a microSD card installed, make sure to remove it before opening the Steam Deck.

Use a Phillips driver to remove the eight screws securing the back cover:

Four 9.5 mm screws

Four 5.8 mm screws

Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your Steam Deck.

1024

Step 2

              Unclip the back cover

Insert an opening pick into the thin gap between the back cover and the front shell, along the edge of the right grip.
Pry up on the back cover to release it from the locking clips.

Insert an opening pick into the thin gap between the back cover and the front shell, along the edge of the right grip.

Pry up on the back cover to release it from the locking clips.

Step 3

              Remove the back cover

Once the clips are disconnected from one edge, the rest disconnect easily.
Grip the back cover at the opening you just created and pull it up and away from the device to unclip the long edges.
Remove the back cover.

Once the clips are disconnected from one edge, the rest disconnect easily.

Grip the back cover at the opening you just created and pull it up and away from the device to unclip the long edges.

Remove the back cover.

Step 4

              Uncover the hidden shield screw

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the piece of foil tape covering the hidden screw on the board shield.
If possible, try not to rip or tear this tape so it can be reused. If necessary, you can fashion a replacement by cutting a piece of aluminum foil tape to fit.

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the piece of foil tape covering the hidden screw on the board shield.

If possible, try not to rip or tear this tape so it can be reused. If necessary, you can fashion a replacement by cutting a piece of aluminum foil tape to fit.

Step 5

              Remove the shield screws

Use a Phillips driver to remove the three screws securing the board shield:
One 3.4 mm screw
Two 3.7 mm screws

Use a Phillips driver to remove the three screws securing the board shield:

One 3.4 mm screw

Two 3.7 mm screws

Step 6

              Remove the shield

Remove the board shield.
During reassembly, ensure that the fan cable lays on the side of the board shield and isn’t pinched underneath.

Remove the board shield.

During reassembly, ensure that the fan cable lays on the side of the board shield and isn’t pinched underneath.

Step 7

              Disconnect the battery

Grip the battery cable by its pull tab and pull it directly away from the motherboard to disconnect it.
Alternatively, use the flat end of a spudger to gently push the connector out of its socket, then disconnect it completely by hand.

Grip the battery cable by its pull tab and pull it directly away from the motherboard to disconnect it.

Alternatively, use the flat end of a spudger to gently push the connector out of its socket, then disconnect it completely by hand.

Step 8

              Remove the SSD screw

Use a Phillips driver to remove the 3.4 mm screw securing the SSD.

Use a Phillips driver to remove the 3.4 mm screw securing the SSD.

Step 9

              Remove the SSD

With the SSD screw removed, the SSD will pop up at a shallow angle.
Grip the end of the SSD and pull it away from its M.2 board connector to remove it.
During reassembly, insert the SSD at a shallow angle into its board connector, and secure it back into its horizontal position with the SSD screw.

With the SSD screw removed, the SSD will pop up at a shallow angle.

Grip the end of the SSD and pull it away from its M.2 board connector to remove it.

During reassembly, insert the SSD at a shallow angle into its board connector, and secure it back into its horizontal position with the SSD screw.

Step 10

              Remove the heatsink sticker

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the sticker from the top edge of the fan.
If possible, try not to rip or tear this sticker so it can be reused. Use a little bit of heat if necessary to soften the adhesive.
If the sticker feels like it might tear, use tweezers to peel up one edge just until you can grip it with your fingers, then remove the rest by hand.

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the sticker from the top edge of the fan.

If possible, try not to rip or tear this sticker so it can be reused. Use a little bit of heat if necessary to soften the adhesive.

If the sticker feels like it might tear, use tweezers to peel up one edge just until you can grip it with your fingers, then remove the rest by hand.

Step 11

              Remove the heatsink screws

Use a Phillips driver to loosen and remove the two screws securing the heatsink to the motherboard:
One captive 3.5 mm screw
One 3.4 mm screw
No, your eyes don’t deceive you! The third heatsink screw was removed earlier in the disassembly: it doubles as the hidden board shield screw.

Use a Phillips driver to loosen and remove the two screws securing the heatsink to the motherboard:

One captive 3.5 mm screw

No, your eyes don’t deceive you! The third heatsink screw was removed earlier in the disassembly: it doubles as the hidden board shield screw.

Step 12

              Remove the heatsink

Lift and remove the heatsink.
Before reinstalling the heatsink, follow this guide to clean the heatsink and APU and reapply thermal paste.

Lift and remove the heatsink.

Before reinstalling the heatsink, follow this guide to clean the heatsink and APU and reapply thermal paste.

Step 13

              Disconnect the fan

Use a pair of tweezers to grip the edges of the fan connector and pull up to disconnect it from the motherboard.
Pull the fan cable by its connector, not the wires themselves.

Use a pair of tweezers to grip the edges of the fan connector and pull up to disconnect it from the motherboard.

Pull the fan cable by its connector, not the wires themselves.

Step 14

              Remove the Wi-Fi shield tape

Use a pair of tweezers to peel up and remove the Wi-Fi shield tape.
If possible, try not to rip or tear this sticker so it can be reused. Use a little bit of heat if necessary to soften the adhesive.

Use a pair of tweezers to peel up and remove the Wi-Fi shield tape.

Step 15

              Disconnect the speakers

Use a pair of tweezers to grip the edges of the speaker connector and pull up to disconnect it from the motherboard.
Pull the speaker cable by its connector, not the wires themselves.

Use a pair of tweezers to grip the edges of the speaker connector and pull up to disconnect it from the motherboard.

Pull the speaker cable by its connector, not the wires themselves.

Step 16

              Disconnect the Wi-Fi

Use a pair of tweezers to grip the antenna connector close to its base.
Pull straight up to disconnect the cable.
Repeat for the second antenna cable.
During reassembly, ensure that both antenna cables are reconnected at their appropriate connectors. The labels on the cables match the markings on the Wi-Fi module.
To reconnect each cable, align the connector directly over its socket, and then press down so it snaps into place.

Use a pair of tweezers to grip the antenna connector close to its base.

Pull straight up to disconnect the cable.

Repeat for the second antenna cable.

During reassembly, ensure that both antenna cables are reconnected at their appropriate connectors. The labels on the cables match the markings on the Wi-Fi module.

To reconnect each cable, align the connector directly over its socket, and then press down so it snaps into place.

Step 17

              Disconnect the display

Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the small locking flap on the display cable’s ZIF connector.
Use a pair of tweezers to slide the cable out of its connector.
Grip the cable by the pull tab, not by the cable itself.

Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the small locking flap on the display cable’s ZIF connector.

Use a pair of tweezers to slide the cable out of its connector.

Grip the cable by the pull tab, not by the cable itself.

Step 18

              Disconnect the audio cable

Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the small locking flap on the audio cable’s ZIF connector.

Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the small locking flap on the audio cable’s ZIF connector.

Step 19

Use a pair of tweezers to slide the cable out of its connector.
Grip the cable by its pull tab, not by the cable itself.

Grip the cable by its pull tab, not by the cable itself.

Step 20

Carefully peel the audio cable off of the battery.
The audio cable is secured to the battery with some light adhesive.
If the adhesive is stubborn, don’t force the cable. Lightly heat the audio cable using an iOpener or a hair dryer to soften the adhesive.

Carefully peel the audio cable off of the battery.

The audio cable is secured to the battery with some light adhesive.

If the adhesive is stubborn, don’t force the cable. Lightly heat the audio cable using an iOpener or a hair dryer to soften the adhesive.

Step 21

              Disconnect the button board

Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the small locking flap on the button board cable’s ZIF connector.
Use a pair of tweezers to slide the cable out of its connector.
Grip the cable by the blue pull tab, not by the cable itself.

Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the small locking flap on the button board cable’s ZIF connector.

Grip the cable by the blue pull tab, not by the cable itself.

Step 22

              Remove the motherboard screws

Use a Phillips driver to remove the three 3.7 mm screws securing the motherboard.

Use a Phillips driver to remove the three 3.7 mm screws securing the motherboard.

Step 23

              Remove the motherboard

Remove the motherboard.
The audio and button board cables attach to the underside of the motherboard with ZIF connectors.

Remove the motherboard.

The audio and button board cables attach to the underside of the motherboard with ZIF connectors.

Step 24

              Disconnect the button  board interconnect cable

Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the small locking flap on the button board interconnect cable’s ZIF connector on the left button board.
Use a pair of tweezers to slide the cable out of its connector.
Grip the cable by the blue pull tab, not by the cable itself.

Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the small locking flap on the button board interconnect cable’s ZIF connector on the left button board.

Step 25

Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the small locking flap on the button board interconnect cable’s ZIF connector on the right button board.
Use a pair of tweezers to slide the cable out of its connector.
Grip the cable by the blue pull tab, not by the cable itself.

Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the small locking flap on the button board interconnect cable’s ZIF connector on the right button board.

Step 26

              Isolate the speaker wire

Use a pair of tweezers to peel up the tape bundling the speaker wire to the Wi-Fi antenna cables.

Use a pair of tweezers to peel up the tape bundling the speaker wire to the Wi-Fi antenna cables.

Step 27

Use a pair of tweezers to peel up the various strips of black tape routing the speaker wire along the bottom edge of the chassis.

Use a pair of tweezers to peel up the various strips of black tape routing the speaker wire along the bottom edge of the chassis.

Step 28

              Remove the right speaker

Insert the flat end of a spudger between the right speaker and the frame.
Pivot the spudger up to separate the speaker from the light adhesive securing it against the front shell.
If the adhesive is stubborn, don’t force the speaker out. Lightly heat it using an iOpener or a hair dryer to soften the adhesive underneath.

Insert the flat end of a spudger between the right speaker and the frame.

Pivot the spudger up to separate the speaker from the light adhesive securing it against the front shell.

If the adhesive is stubborn, don’t force the speaker out. Lightly heat it using an iOpener or a hair dryer to soften the adhesive underneath.

Step 29

Use a pair of tweezers to grip and remove the right speaker from its cavity.
When removing the speaker, ensure that the fragile speaker mesh underneath stays in place. During reassembly, make sure it’s uncreased and lays flat against the front shell.

Use a pair of tweezers to grip and remove the right speaker from its cavity.

When removing the speaker, ensure that the fragile speaker mesh underneath stays in place. During reassembly, make sure it’s uncreased and lays flat against the front shell.

Step 30

              Remove the left speaker

Insert the flat end of a spudger between the left speaker and the frame.
Pivot the spudger up to separate the speaker from the light adhesive securing it against the front shell.
If the adhesive is stubborn, don’t force the speaker out. Lightly heat it using an iOpener or a hair dryer to soften the adhesive underneath.

Insert the flat end of a spudger between the left speaker and the frame.

Step 31

Use a pair of tweezers to grip and remove the left speaker from its cavity.
When removing the speaker, ensure that the fragile speaker mesh underneath stays in place. During reassembly, make sure it’s uncreased and lays flat against the front shell.

Use a pair of tweezers to grip and remove the left speaker from its cavity.

Step 32

              Remove the speakers

Remove the tethered right and left speakers.

Remove the tethered right and left speakers.

Step 33

              Reassembly tip

During reassembly, note that the speakers are labeled, such as:
LUX-F7A-L for the left speaker.
LUX-F7A-R for the right speaker.

During reassembly, note that the speakers are labeled, such as:

LUX-F7A-L for the left speaker.

LUX-F7A-R for the right speaker.

Step 34

              Prepare the surfaces

To ensure a good adhesive bond, thoroughly clean all adhesion surfaces.
Use adhesive remover or isopropyl alcohol (>90%) to remove any remaining residue. Wipe with a cotton swab or microfiber cloth until all the adhesive residue is gone.
While isopropyl alcohol is generally safe to use on electronics, they will dissolve certain foam adhesives. Be careful to contain the alcohol when cleaning—don’t use too much.
Allow any leftover isopropyl alcohol to completely evaporate before reassembly.

To ensure a good adhesive bond, thoroughly clean all adhesion surfaces.

Use adhesive remover or isopropyl alcohol (>90%) to remove any remaining residue. Wipe with a cotton swab or microfiber cloth until all the adhesive residue is gone.

While isopropyl alcohol is generally safe to use on electronics, they will dissolve certain foam adhesives. Be careful to contain the alcohol when cleaning—don’t use too much.

Allow any leftover isopropyl alcohol to completely evaporate before reassembly.

Step 35

              Remove the speaker adhesive liners

Peel off and discard the liners on the speakers themselves, exposing the adhesive underneath.

Peel off and discard the liners on the speakers themselves, exposing the adhesive underneath.

Step 36

              Install the new speakers

Place each speaker into its slot and press firmly with your fingers to set them in place.
The right speaker will be on your lefthand side and vice versa when working on the Steam Deck, as it’s laying upside down.

Place each speaker into its slot and press firmly with your fingers to set them in place.

The right speaker will be on your lefthand side and vice versa when working on the Steam Deck, as it’s laying upside down.

Step 37

Fit the speaker cable into the two hooks along the bottom of the chassis.

Fit the speaker cable into the two hooks along the bottom of the chassis.

Step 38

              Remove the cable adhesive liners

Remove the adhesive liners from the tape strips along the speaker cable.

Remove the adhesive liners from the tape strips along the speaker cable.

Step 39

              Route the speaker cables

To ensure proper cable management, stick one speaker cable adhesive to the top edge of the chassis, leaving ~3 mm at the top unstuck.
Use an opening pick to wrap the adhesive over the edge of the battery tray, sticking it to the inside edge.
Repeat for the second cable adhesive, and continue reassembly.

To ensure proper cable management, stick one speaker cable adhesive to the top edge of the chassis, leaving ~3 mm at the top unstuck.

Use an opening pick to wrap the adhesive over the edge of the battery tray, sticking it to the inside edge.

Repeat for the second cable adhesive, and continue reassembly.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Steam Deck answers community for help.

Cancel: I did not complete this guide.

Author

                                      with 4 other contributors

                    Carsten Frauenheim

Member since: 03/10/2020

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Schuma6 MZX - Jan 1, 2023

Hello.

Thanks for your great doc.. I got a problem on my steam deck that the left speaker sounds louder and more clear than the right side. Tried many games and other music resourses, also checked the balance setting in desktop mode, right side seems to be a liitle weaker.

Especially the treble range is especially obviously like this.

Do you think if it Is a hardware failure? Did you ever see this ptoblem?

Thanks a lot.

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