Featured
Featured Guide
Difficulty
Moderate
Steps
42
Time Required
2 - 3 hours
Sections
8
- Back Cover
- 3 steps
- Steam Deck Battery Disconnection
- 4 steps
- Steam Deck SSD Removal
- 2 steps
- Steam Deck Heatsink Sticker Removal
- 1 step
- Heatsink
- 2 steps
- Motherboard
- 11 steps
- Steam Deck Display Disconnection
- 2 steps
- Screen
- 17 steps
Flags
2
Provided Hardware
A manufacturer provided iFixit with this device or component.
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Introduction
Before you begin, completely power down and unplug all cables from your Steam Deck. Remember to follow general electrostatic discharge (ESD) safety procedures while repairing the device.
Note: If you’re installing a 512 GB model display onto a 64 / 256 GB device or vice versa, you’ll need to ensure that a matching display flex cable is installed as well. Both types of displays comes with their specific flex cables.
What you need
Step 1
Remove the back cover screws
- To minimize risk of damage, turn on your Steam Deck and allow the battery to discharge below 25% before starting your repairs. A charged lithium-ion battery can be very dangerous if accidentally punctured.
- Before starting this guide, power down your Steam Deck and unplug any cables.
- As an extra precaution, Valve recommends putting your Steam Deck into battery storage mode within the BIOS before starting any internal repairs. Read how to do that here.
- If you have a microSD card installed, make sure to remove it before opening the Steam Deck.
- Use a Phillips driver to remove the eight screws securing the back cover:
- Four 9.5 mm screws
- Four 5.8 mm screws
- Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your Steam Deck.
To minimize risk of damage, turn on your Steam Deck and allow the battery to discharge below 25% before starting your repairs. A charged lithium-ion battery can be very dangerous if accidentally punctured.
Before starting this guide, power down your Steam Deck and unplug any cables.
As an extra precaution, Valve recommends putting your Steam Deck into battery storage mode within the BIOS before starting any internal repairs. Read how to do that here.
If you have a microSD card installed, make sure to remove it before opening the Steam Deck.
Use a Phillips driver to remove the eight screws securing the back cover:
Four 9.5 mm screws
Four 5.8 mm screws
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your Steam Deck.
1024
Step 2
Unclip the back cover
- Insert an opening pick into the thin gap between the back cover and the front shell, along the edge of the right grip.
- Pry up on the back cover to release it from the locking clips.
Insert an opening pick into the thin gap between the back cover and the front shell, along the edge of the right grip.
Pry up on the back cover to release it from the locking clips.
Step 3
Remove the back cover
- Once the clips are disconnected from one edge, the rest disconnect easily.
- Grip the back cover at the opening you just created and pull it up and away from the device to unclip the long edges.
- Remove the back cover.
Once the clips are disconnected from one edge, the rest disconnect easily.
Grip the back cover at the opening you just created and pull it up and away from the device to unclip the long edges.
Remove the back cover.
Step 4
Uncover the hidden shield screw
- Use a pair of tweezers to remove the piece of foil tape covering the hidden screw on the board shield.
- If possible, try not to rip or tear this tape so it can be reused. If necessary, you can fashion a replacement by cutting a piece of aluminum foil tape to fit.
Use a pair of tweezers to remove the piece of foil tape covering the hidden screw on the board shield.
If possible, try not to rip or tear this tape so it can be reused. If necessary, you can fashion a replacement by cutting a piece of aluminum foil tape to fit.
Step 5
Remove the shield screws
- Use a Phillips driver to remove the three screws securing the board shield:
- One 3.4 mm screw
- Two 3.7 mm screws
Use a Phillips driver to remove the three screws securing the board shield:
One 3.4 mm screw
Two 3.7 mm screws
Step 6
Remove the shield
- Remove the board shield.
- During reassembly, ensure that the fan cable lays on the side of the board shield and isn’t pinched underneath.
Remove the board shield.
During reassembly, ensure that the fan cable lays on the side of the board shield and isn’t pinched underneath.
Step 7
Disconnect the battery
- Grip the battery cable by its pull tab and pull it directly away from the motherboard to disconnect it.
- Alternatively, use the flat end of a spudger to gently push the connector out of its socket, then disconnect it completely by hand.
Grip the battery cable by its pull tab and pull it directly away from the motherboard to disconnect it.
Alternatively, use the flat end of a spudger to gently push the connector out of its socket, then disconnect it completely by hand.
Step 8
Remove the SSD screw
- Use a Phillips driver to remove the 3.4 mm screw securing the SSD.
Use a Phillips driver to remove the 3.4 mm screw securing the SSD.
Step 9
Remove the SSD
- With the SSD screw removed, the SSD will pop up at a shallow angle.
- Grip the end of the SSD and pull it away from its M.2 board connector to remove it.
- During reassembly, insert the SSD at a shallow angle into its board connector, and secure it back into its horizontal position with the SSD screw.
With the SSD screw removed, the SSD will pop up at a shallow angle.
Grip the end of the SSD and pull it away from its M.2 board connector to remove it.
During reassembly, insert the SSD at a shallow angle into its board connector, and secure it back into its horizontal position with the SSD screw.
Step 10
Remove the heatsink sticker
- Use a pair of tweezers to remove the sticker from the top edge of the fan.
- If possible, try not to rip or tear this sticker so it can be reused. Use a little bit of heat if necessary to soften the adhesive.
- If the sticker feels like it might tear, use tweezers to peel up one edge just until you can grip it with your fingers, then remove the rest by hand.
Use a pair of tweezers to remove the sticker from the top edge of the fan.
If possible, try not to rip or tear this sticker so it can be reused. Use a little bit of heat if necessary to soften the adhesive.
If the sticker feels like it might tear, use tweezers to peel up one edge just until you can grip it with your fingers, then remove the rest by hand.
Step 11
Remove the heatsink screws
- Use a Phillips driver to loosen and remove the two screws securing the heatsink to the motherboard:
- One captive 3.5 mm screw
- One 3.4 mm screw
- No, your eyes don’t deceive you! The third heatsink screw was removed earlier in the disassembly: it doubles as the hidden board shield screw.
Use a Phillips driver to loosen and remove the two screws securing the heatsink to the motherboard:
One captive 3.5 mm screw
No, your eyes don’t deceive you! The third heatsink screw was removed earlier in the disassembly: it doubles as the hidden board shield screw.
Step 12
Remove the heatsink
- Lift and remove the heatsink.
- Before reinstalling the heatsink, follow this guide to clean the heatsink and APU and reapply thermal paste.
Lift and remove the heatsink.
Before reinstalling the heatsink, follow this guide to clean the heatsink and APU and reapply thermal paste.
Step 13
Disconnect the fan
- Use a pair of tweezers to grip the edges of the fan connector and pull up to disconnect it from the motherboard.
- Pull the fan cable by its connector, not the wires themselves.
Use a pair of tweezers to grip the edges of the fan connector and pull up to disconnect it from the motherboard.
Pull the fan cable by its connector, not the wires themselves.
Step 14
Remove the Wi-Fi shield tape
- Use a pair of tweezers to peel up and remove the Wi-Fi shield tape.
- If possible, try not to rip or tear this sticker so it can be reused. Use a little bit of heat if necessary to soften the adhesive.
Use a pair of tweezers to peel up and remove the Wi-Fi shield tape.
Step 15
Disconnect the speakers
- Use a pair of tweezers to grip the edges of the speaker connector and pull up to disconnect it from the motherboard.
- Pull the speaker cable by its connector, not the wires themselves.
Use a pair of tweezers to grip the edges of the speaker connector and pull up to disconnect it from the motherboard.
Pull the speaker cable by its connector, not the wires themselves.
Step 16
Disconnect the Wi-Fi
- Use a pair of tweezers to grip the antenna connector close to its base.
- Pull straight up to disconnect the cable.
- Repeat for the second antenna cable.
- During reassembly, ensure that both antenna cables are reconnected at their appropriate connectors. The labels on the cables match the markings on the Wi-Fi module.
- To reconnect each cable, align the connector directly over its socket, and then press down so it snaps into place.
Use a pair of tweezers to grip the antenna connector close to its base.
Pull straight up to disconnect the cable.
Repeat for the second antenna cable.
During reassembly, ensure that both antenna cables are reconnected at their appropriate connectors. The labels on the cables match the markings on the Wi-Fi module.
To reconnect each cable, align the connector directly over its socket, and then press down so it snaps into place.
Step 17
Disconnect the display
- Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the small locking flap on the display cable’s ZIF connector.
- Use a pair of tweezers to slide the cable out of its connector.
- Grip the cable by the pull tab, not by the cable itself.
Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the small locking flap on the display cable’s ZIF connector.
Use a pair of tweezers to slide the cable out of its connector.
Grip the cable by the pull tab, not by the cable itself.
Step 18
Disconnect the audio cable
- Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the small locking flap on the audio cable’s ZIF connector.
Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the small locking flap on the audio cable’s ZIF connector.
Step 19
- Use a pair of tweezers to slide the cable out of its connector.
- Grip the cable by its pull tab, not by the cable itself.
Grip the cable by its pull tab, not by the cable itself.
Step 20
- Carefully peel the audio cable off of the battery.
- The audio cable is secured to the battery with some light adhesive.
- If the adhesive is stubborn, don’t force the cable. Lightly heat the audio cable using an iOpener or a hair dryer to soften the adhesive.
Carefully peel the audio cable off of the battery.
The audio cable is secured to the battery with some light adhesive.
If the adhesive is stubborn, don’t force the cable. Lightly heat the audio cable using an iOpener or a hair dryer to soften the adhesive.
Step 21
Disconnect the button board
- Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the small locking flap on the button board cable’s ZIF connector.
- Use a pair of tweezers to slide the cable out of its connector.
- Grip the cable by the blue pull tab, not by the cable itself.
Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the small locking flap on the button board cable’s ZIF connector.
Grip the cable by the blue pull tab, not by the cable itself.
Step 22
Remove the motherboard screws
- Use a Phillips driver to remove the three 3.7 mm screws securing the motherboard.
Use a Phillips driver to remove the three 3.7 mm screws securing the motherboard.
Step 23
Remove the motherboard
- Remove the motherboard.
- The audio and button board cables attach to the underside of the motherboard with ZIF connectors.
Remove the motherboard.
The audio and button board cables attach to the underside of the motherboard with ZIF connectors.
Step 24
Uncover the display connector
- Use a pair of tweezers to peel back the sticker covering the display connector.
- If possible, try not to rip or tear this sticker so it can be reused. Use a little bit of heat if necessary to soften the adhesive.
Use a pair of tweezers to peel back the sticker covering the display connector.
Step 25
Disconnect the display
- Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the small locking flap on the display cable’s ZIF connector.
- Use a pair of tweezers to slide the cable out of its connector.
Step 26
Heat the display adhesive
- Prepare an iOpener and apply it to the top edge of the display for one minute.
- A hair dryer or heat gun may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the Steam Deck—displays and internal batteries are both susceptible to heat damage.
Prepare an iOpener and apply it to the top edge of the display for one minute.
A hair dryer or heat gun may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the Steam Deck—displays and internal batteries are both susceptible to heat damage.
Step 27
Apply a suction cup
- Apply a suction cup to the top left corner of the display by pressing down on it to create suction, as close to the edge as possible.
- If your screen is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken glass.
Apply a suction cup to the top left corner of the display by pressing down on it to create suction, as close to the edge as possible.
If your screen is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken glass.
Step 28
Insert an opening pick
- Pull up on the suction cup with strong, steady force to create a gap between the display and the frame.
- Insert the point of an opening pick into the gap.
- Don’t insert the pick more than 1/8 of an inch (~3 mm) or you risk damaging the display panel, ambient light sensor, or fragile cable underneath.
Pull up on the suction cup with strong, steady force to create a gap between the display and the frame.
Insert the point of an opening pick into the gap.
Don’t insert the pick more than 1/8 of an inch (~3 mm) or you risk damaging the display panel, ambient light sensor, or fragile cable underneath.
Step 29
Begin to slice the adhesive
- Slide the opening pick across the top edge to slice the adhesive.
Slide the opening pick across the top edge to slice the adhesive.
Step 30
Heat the display adhesive
- Heat the right edge of the display for one minute.
Heat the right edge of the display for one minute.
Step 31
Slice the right side adhesive
- Slide the opening pick down the right edge to slice the adhesive.
Slide the opening pick down the right edge to slice the adhesive.
Step 32
Heat the display adhesive
- Heat the bottom edge of the display for one minute.
Heat the bottom edge of the display for one minute.
Step 33
Slice the bottom side adhesive
- Slide the opening pick across the bottom edge to slice the adhesive.
Slide the opening pick across the bottom edge to slice the adhesive.
Step 34
Heat the display adhesive
- Heat the left edge of the display for one minute.
- Slide the opening pick across the left edge to slice the adhesive.
Heat the left edge of the display for one minute.
Slide the opening pick across the left edge to slice the adhesive.
Step 35
Lift up the display
- Once you have sliced around the perimeter of the display, carefully lift the right edge up, opening it like a book.
- Remove the display.
Once you have sliced around the perimeter of the display, carefully lift the right edge up, opening it like a book.
Remove the display.
Step 36
Identify the adhesive strips and their locations
- During reassembly:
- Look over the new display adhesive and match each strip to its respective side of the display.
During reassembly:
Look over the new display adhesive and match each strip to its respective side of the display.
Step 37
Prepare the surfaces
- To ensure a good adhesive bond, thoroughly clean all adhesion surfaces.
- Remove large chunks of adhesives with the flat end of a spudger or plastic opening tool.
- Don’t use metal tools, as they can scratch the surface.
To ensure a good adhesive bond, thoroughly clean all adhesion surfaces.
Remove large chunks of adhesives with the flat end of a spudger or plastic opening tool.
Don’t use metal tools, as they can scratch the surface.
Step 38
- Use adhesive remover or isopropyl alcohol (>90%) to remove any remaining residue. Wipe in one direction with a lint-free cloth or coffee filter until all the adhesive residue is gone.
- While isopropyl alcohol is generally safe to use on electronics, they will dissolve certain foam adhesives. Be careful to contain the alcohol when cleaning—don’t use too much.
- Allow any leftover isopropyl alcohol to completely evaporate before reassembly.
Use adhesive remover or isopropyl alcohol (>90%) to remove any remaining residue. Wipe in one direction with a lint-free cloth or coffee filter until all the adhesive residue is gone.
While isopropyl alcohol is generally safe to use on electronics, they will dissolve certain foam adhesives. Be careful to contain the alcohol when cleaning—don’t use too much.
Allow any leftover isopropyl alcohol to completely evaporate before reassembly.
Step 39
Remove the adhesive liner
- Before you peel any liners, locate the surface the sticky side should adhere to.
- Once you have a good idea of where the adhesive strip goes, peel off and discard the liner, exposing the adhesive underneath.
- Be careful with exposed adhesives. Most of the time, you can’t peel and reapply adhesive strips if they’re stuck to the wrong spot.
Before you peel any liners, locate the surface the sticky side should adhere to.
Once you have a good idea of where the adhesive strip goes, peel off and discard the liner, exposing the adhesive underneath.
Be careful with exposed adhesives. Most of the time, you can’t peel and reapply adhesive strips if they’re stuck to the wrong spot.
Step 40
Align and place the adhesive strips
- Hold the exposed strip by its tabs and carefully line up the edge of the adhesive to the outer edge of display.
- Use your old display as a reference for where the new adhesive strips should be applied on the new display’s edges.
- Be careful with alignment. Most of the time, you can’t peel and reapply adhesive strips if they stick misaligned.
- Set the adhesive onto the surface and press firmly with your fingers to set it in place.
- Repeat the previous two steps for the three other display adhesive strips.
Hold the exposed strip by its tabs and carefully line up the edge of the adhesive to the outer edge of display.
Use your old display as a reference for where the new adhesive strips should be applied on the new display’s edges.
Be careful with alignment. Most of the time, you can’t peel and reapply adhesive strips if they stick misaligned.
Set the adhesive onto the surface and press firmly with your fingers to set it in place.
Repeat the previous two steps for the three other display adhesive strips.
Step 41
Peel off the last adhesive liners
- Peel off and discard the remaining plastic liners on all four strips, exposing the adhesive underneath.
- Repeat for all four display adhesive strips, being careful not to touch any exposed adhesives.
Peel off and discard the remaining plastic liners on all four strips, exposing the adhesive underneath.
Repeat for all four display adhesive strips, being careful not to touch any exposed adhesives.
Step 42
Install the new display
- Set the new display in place on the midframe and press firmly along the edges for 20-30 seconds to ensure a good adhesive bond.
Set the new display in place on the midframe and press firmly along the edges for 20-30 seconds to ensure a good adhesive bond.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Steam Deck answers community for help.
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Carsten Frauenheim
Member since: 03/10/2020
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Matt Willis - Sep 15, 2022
Reply
Attempted this tonight after smashing the screen on my deck. Easy to follow and worked flawlessly first time. Thank you
lapartdesanges50 - Nov 4, 2022
Reply
On peut mettre un autre ecran OLED ou autre ?
Lenny Zappa - Nov 15, 2022
Reply
This guide is gold standard. Not once did I think “why didn’t they mention this?”